High Resolution LCD

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Updated 28 March 08

Replace 400x240 LCD with 800x480
The Digital LCD controller
Lets Go! Modify Panel
The remote sensor
Bordmonitor House

Before and After:



Doing a full Bordmonitor conversion integrating the LCD panel and DVD burner takes about 40 hours.

It is easier to start from a Bordmonitor with CD, but a Tape version can be converted too.


The active area matches the bezel surprisingly well. It is only off to the left by about 1mm. 

Replace 400x240 LCD with 800x480

I want better resolution than the 240 (234) x 400 in the original LCD. 480x800 is a minimum as computer screen even with a skin like roadrunner.

(click to enlarge)

For that purpose I bought a DL065A from Panda to take parts from. (I had to buy a new one from CarTFT CID650 because I fried the first one... Different name, same thing) It contains amongst other things a SharpLQ065Y5DG01  HR-TFT. A 6,5" Sharp display with 800x480 resolution!

Contrast is not excellent with 250. (Sharp has new LCD's with 1500 in contrast)

It is a bit slow with 30ms.

it's active area is 144 x 78.24  compared with existing panels 143.4 x 79.326

outline is 160x94x8.2 which fits fine.

3x 6-bits digital interface. Can be mirrored and upside-down.

The DL065A also contains a digital LCD controller board that has a very nice physical form. It is made to sit right behind the LCD and it will actually fit there in the BordMonitor without taking away the analogue controller! That is good, because that board has the electronics for the buttons.

The digital LCD controller 

The digital (not the OEM analogue) Sharp LCD has got a digital (CMOS level) interface. The controller board contains

750V generation for the CFL backlight.

3.3V and other miscellaneous supply voltages

RGB (WVGA) to digital interface. 


Analogue common voltages. Grayscale voltages.


Lets GO! Modify Panel

This is actually the second time I've done this so I think I've found the best way of doing it now :-)

New panel with controller on the left, and the old low resolution panel on the right


I first made two adapters from 5mm plexi. Purpose was two:
1) The two mounting holes at the lower edge was outside the edge and the plexi could be made long enough to reach the right position.
2) Most components on the LCD controller board is lower than 5mm and will get enough headroom due to these extra 5mm. 

To compensate for the additional 5mm I cut the plastic frame 5mm of the base.

The plexi has to be "wedged".

Before assembling sold in ribbon cable instead of the button connectors. If I would have know this from the beginning I would probably have been able to use the old connectors. Now I had no room for them. Most of the pictures below is taken before I realized that I needed them. If you wonder why you don't see them.

A rather large hole has to be made for some of the higher components. Now, If I would have used 6mm plexi that would not have been needed. but I think this is just as good.

More difficult was to make the hole for the cable (and some caps), the end of the backlight connector, and one of the larger caps. Two holes had also to be made for screws that go into two of the LCD panel mounting holes.

The other end of the ribbon cables hot-glued in place.

No other changes has to be made to the front cover! It is a snug fit, but it does fit! On this picture the old controller is assembled too. The only reason for this is button driver. 

The Remote Sensor

I realized I needed to be able to use the remote that came with the DL650A.

I've mounted the remote photo detector from the monitor where the (unused) BMW detector used to be. 

The pcb had to be cut to fit, and a hole to screw the board in place had to be made. I also took some of the top off of the photo device but left the clear glass intact.


All assembled. You can just barely see the white connector for the remote sensor board on the LCD controller board. (left picture). Note other details as the cut-out for the screw holding the LCD panel.

On the right picture you see the remote sensor pcb. Note the electric tape for insulation of the wires of the pcb.

Unfortunately I never got the remote to work on my unit! I have no ide why. If it would have worked I would not have needed the ribbon cables to the buttons.


Make a hole in the back cover for the flexistrip and put it together.

I am a bit worried over the flexistrip to the new LCD. It is a bit hard folded. But I think it is ok.

It has happened to me twice that the monitor has gone into power off mode when I've been tampering with the power supply. Now if I need to connect the buttons I can do that without taking the whole thing into pieces. It can be done in the car without removing a single screw. 

Bordmonitor House with main board from DL065A

Take Bordmonitor apart and saw off (and bend) the bits that prevents the pcb of going low enough. (red boxes)

1) the power amp chip, 
2) the tuner connector, 
3) the main connector for speakers and power, and 
4) put the big 470uF capacitor on wires.
put the smaller cap right next to the flexi connector on wires.
6) remove the fork-detectors on the back of the pcb

Do not for gods sake remove the tuner as I did (and is on this picture)! This will hung the MCU!


USB, AV1&2 and VGA connectors. I cut the AV1 cables.


Power (thick red +12V, thick black GND), ignition (thin red) and backup camera enable (thin black) as above

I've mounted a guide for the digital LCD controller board.

I've also glued 2 supports at the front edge

You can also see the guider for DVD. It is the old hockey puck and a bracket meant to hold a 9V battery in place(!?)


Front piece from both sides showing new hole for flexistrip

It is hard to put the thing together because the old flexistrip has to be mounted on the pcb before the main pcb goes on top of it. 

This is the sequence to do it: Follow it carefully.
1) Remove the bezel for the DVD. This will give space to put the main board in place later.
2) mount old flexi strip of panel.
3) Place the main pcb of the monitor in position. Don't forget to put the flexi of the little extra board in its connector first (as above)
4) Put new flexistrip in place.

5) Put back the DVD bezel. Note the 20mm cap lying down. Headroom is 17mm. Also note have nicely the pcb fits right up to the bezel. There are even latches there to hold the pcb down! So many times I've though that the DL065A monitor was made to fit into this Bordmonitor.


6) Arrange cables in the back so that DVD will fit. 

You now have a high resolution LCD!!