The cut of the surcoat is simple. The parts are cut as wide as possible on a 150 cm wide fabric and then gores are added. The kirtle is also cut in a very simple way, the same
as my 13th century dress. The only difference is that the sleeves are sewn to the sleeve hole all the way round and are buttoned along the lower half of the arm. It also has a slightly wider neckhole, just so that I can push my head through it, and no slit.
You can use both ways of cutting for kirtles and surcoats. The type with straight parts and centre gores is documented from preserved garments and therefore better if you want to be sure your kirtle or surcoat is cut in a period way.
While there are no preserved garments which widens at the sides like I've made my surcoat before the 15th century (Queen Margareta's golden dress) it is a possible way of cutting them and it doesn't waste more fabric. Contrary to popular belief medieval cloth could be very wide, the finished width after fulling being up to 2 m. Of course silk, linen and a lot of other types of woollens, like worsteds had much smaller widths (If you're really interested in this I recommend John H. Munro's book "Textiles, Towns and Trade- essays in the economic history of late medieval England and the Low Countries") One reason that there are no examples of garments cut like this might be that except for St. Birgitta's gown there are no extant garments made from these fulled woollen cloths, most are made from worsted or frieze and some from silk, all narrower fabrics. But this is just a hypothesis. St. Birgitta's gown has been remade into a cloak and it is therefore impossible to say how it was cut originally.
I have placed the pieces so that there is a seam in the centre front because the surcoat has a buttoned opening there and it's easier to do it that way than to cut a slit in a whole piece. Otherwise I prefer to have the seam in the back where you don't see it when you look at me.
The cloak is made of pink lightly fulled wool and lined with brownish thin wool. It has a 4 cm wide ribbon in beige woven with metal threads (again; most likely brass) along the front edge. It is cut like a half circle and has no scope for the neck. Both pictorial evidence and the few preserved
secular cloaks suggest that semi-circular cut was the most common in the middle ages.
The preserved examples can be seen at I Marc Carlsson's site Some Clothing of the Middle Ages" if you look under Cloaks and other garments
The cloak is fastended by a cord of silk and since this was an official and festive occasion I'm wearing my cloak far out on the shoulders. And it stays there. If I would have lined the cloak with silk or had more sloping shoulders I think this would have been more of a problem.
Rickard is wearing a tunic with a hood. It is based on this image from the Codex Manesse. It's made of a "mystery fabric", mostly cotton I think, which is woven in a pattern similar to diamond twill. At 1 m distance I think it can go for a worsted, most people would not see that it's cotton, but on the other hand, most people don't know a lot about fabric. It is fully lined with 100% wool tabby, the same quality as my green kirtle. His undertunic is made of light blue very thin 100% wool twill and has buttoned sleeves and trim patterned in "gold" and light blue around the sleeves and neck, which also is buttoned. He has beige hose too, and shirt and breeches of course, but they are a little hard to see in the picture.
In this picture you can see me looking not quite as pregnant as I do in the left picture. I included it mainly because I look good, but you can also see Isaembelle, Tala and Anna showing some other styles from Codex Manesse. You can also identify the arm which is seen in the upper right corner of the first image. It is Anna, correcting my veil and caught in the act.
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